The Carnavales in Panama are celebrated for four consecutive days, just prior to Ash Wednesday. This is Panama’s most anticipated celebration and it finishes in the very early hours of Wednesday morning with the burring of the sardine
The festivities of the Panamanian carnivals start in the morning hours with the “mojaderas” or “culecos” and are held in open areas or plazas with cistern trucks that water-hose people for a few hours, with loud music and entertainment. This goes on until the early hours of the afternoon. There is a lot of dancing, jumping, popular music, people in bathing suits, contests and more. Then there is a few hours of rest so that people can gather themselves together again and go to the evening parades and “topones” with the Queens sporting their best costumes according to the theme of the night, with luxurious floats and “tunas” or a band of trumpets and drums. Alongside this fun activities, you get lots of different music and entertainment, lots of food and of course beer for as low as $0.50 for national beers and $1.00 for US beers…. At the culecos they often toss out small liquor bottles. A lot of Seco is consumed during Carnavales.
History
The first Carnivals in Panama were celebrated back in Colonial times where a large group of people will dress up as the Queen and King of Spain, conquistador soldiers, slaves and indians off the Pena Prieta Beach by Avenida Balboa. This part is now known as Santa Ana Park, where they will reenact battles. It wasn’t until 1910, through a mayoral decree by then Mayor of Panama City Jose Agustin Arango, that Carnavales were declared a Holiday or official celebration .
To head the celebrations, it was necessary to choose a Queen, so the selection ceremony was held at Club Union and the first Queen was HHM Manuelita Vallarino, who was famous for being one of Panama’s most beautiful women until her death. So year after year, her successors celebrated carnavales on the streets with dances and tunas in areas such as El Chorrillo. So the Queens of Club Union will go to these festivities to mingle with the people and share the happiness in the city. It was all about mutual respect and consideration.
Tradition
The Queens of Carnaval represent opposites sides of the town or neighborhood (Calle Arriba or upper street and Calle Abajo – lower street). The rivalry is real and hilarious to outsiders, but to them is in their DNA. If you are a Calle Abajo, you are not welcomed in Calle Arriba and selling out is considered betrayal. They take this seriously. During the parade, the floats go accompanied by a multitude of people that play music, sing, these are called “tunas”. They scream insults at the rival Queen and her Tuna. Each Tuna comes out with with cars or floats, one has her Court and the second one with the Queen and her Princesses. Each time the Queen is going to come out, there are Fireworks and of course, both sides compete to see who has more and better ones. During the Queen’s parade every night for five nighs this is done.
Each night has an individual theme, with all new costumes, floats and luxury of Carnaval.
- Friday when the previous Queen does her last round in the new float, then they Crown the new Queen and the Tuna starts to celebrate
- Saturday is when the Queen wears a Costume like Fantasy night
- Sunday is when the Queen parades in her coronation gown and floats are decorated with the theme of her coronation
- Monday is the fanciest and most luxurious, the Queen parades in a large and extravagant Gala costume
- Tuesday is the last night, so the Tuna comes out with drums and then the murga just like other days, everyone wears typical Panamanian dress and the theme is Panama or a fantasy about Panama, could be floral, fauna, indigenous mythology or national history. The Queen wears a luxury Pollera
The culecos are with costumes and following the lead of Monday’s fantasy, Tuesday is National Fantasy, at about 5 a.m. Wednesday (Ash Wednesday) the Topon begins, the two Queens meet at the dividing point and start a competition of crowds, chanting, tunas and Fireworks. One is deemed the winner and carnivals end.
Carnavalitos are celebrated the Friday and Saturday following carnival and are considered the party of the people, as for Carnavales there are many tourists int he country. Friday night the Queens uses Gala costumes and Crown. Saturday there is a culeco and at night a Costume Parade, 1 float only on both nights.
Carnavales are mostly celebrated in
Las Tablas
Chitre
Penonome
Villa de Los Santos
Dolega
Capira
Panama City
Aguadulce
San Miguelito
Curious notes
In the City, the most anticipated float is the Gay Queen/Parade Float (usually the last), because of its extravagance and luxury
In the Interior Provinces, when pawn shops run out of money, they pawn for liquor or beer
In Las Tablas and most popular celebration cities,some people rent out their homes and sleep on tent
Replies
Las Tables is the place to be!
If you know people it is incredible if not it could be difficult to find a place to stay.
I haven't been in the Capital since they moved it to the Cinta Costera but I have heard it is better.
Transimica was not a good experience for me many years ago. The people there were the ones who had no $$ to leave town.
San Lorenzo has Carnival small scale but a blast.
Las Tables has many celebrations, Ano Nuevo, Carnival, Semana Santo, Pollera festival (national dress).
It is the heart of culture in Panama.
I still want to try Santiago and Penonome.
Dolega was interesting.
Are there any restriction on alcohol sales during Carnival?
Carnivals is a tradition in latin cultures.
There are other places in the Americas where carnivals is a tradition too.
Rio de Janeiro - Brasil
Barranquilla - Colombia
Port of Spain - Trinidad and Tobago
New Orleans - USA
I am not sure but I guess I am missing two other places in Latin America that has this tradition too.
Interesting stuff... thanks for sharing.